My apologies for the slow updates while we are at Gallıpoli. There is very little ın the way of internet connections here. I will do a large update of informatıon and photos as soon as we return to Istanbul. This is the day after ANZAC day.

While the start of day 8 took us to Cape Helles at the far south end of the battlefields, the 9th day starts with a trip to the Suvla Bay area in the far north. We start at Lala Baba which over looks Suvla Bay and the Salt Lake. The Salt Lake now has a dam at one end so that a low level of water could be maintained for fish farming.

Our next stop also shows how areas change over time. The location is the Green Hill cemetery. At the time of the conflict two hills were named Green Hill and Chocolate Hill. Since then the vegetation has changed so that colours have swapped. This is Green Hill now looks dark brown and Chocolate Hill is covered with crops and looks very green. Some more touring and history talks which takes us to lunchtime.

The afternoon has optional walks either along the beach at ANAZC Cove or a longer walk from Chunuk Bair to the coast line at Embarkation Pier. The second of these options is a medium level walk which is predominantly down hill. The only steep section is a side path down to The Farm cemetery that is well worth the trip as it is in a well wooded area that looks back up to Chunuk Bair. The entire walk down takes about 3 hours but is well worth the trip with fantastic 360 degree views.

Today we went to Asia! We took the ferry across the Dardanelles, which was amazing because it only takes around 5 minutes. We got to look at the forts on both sides, which were bombarded during the naval campaign of the First World War. The fort on the Asian side has been converted into a museum, staffed by Turkish men serving their compulsory military service. We walked in a replica of the Nusrat and watched presentations about the Turkish success on March 18th. We also got to look at a collection of WWI guns and cannons, and watched a play set in the Turkish trenches. After the fort we saw the horse from the movie Troy and then drove to Troy itself, which was really amazing. The site has ruins from each of the 9 cities of Troy, which were built one after the other as each was destroyed. Seeing the excavation sites was amazing, as some of the ruins date back to 3000BC. There are also better preserved relics from the Roman times. Our guide Guzin also told us some of the history and mythology behind the story of Troy, which was really interesting as we could see how wrong Hollywood got it. After posing for some pictures inside the giant horse we came back to the European side on the ferry before heading back to the hotel. The Mediterranean was freezing as ever and today was infested with jellyfish as well! After dinner we played card games before heading of to bed.

Zoe Power

The first half of day 8 is a tour of the Helles point area. After all the walking of day 7 it is a nice break to have a bus tour day. Although this area was primarily landed and occupied by British and French troops it also has some ANZAC memorial.

The first stop is at a Turkish memorial that was a section of graves for those killed when British ship artillery shelled a hospital installation.

Our next stop is the ANZAC memorial for the Lancashire Landing at W beach. The memorial is higher up from the beach area overlooking the entrance to the Dardanelles and a nearby light house.

A short trip down the road is the very large Helles Memorial where the names of over 21,000 British troops are engraved. Also on this memorial are the names of ANZACs for whom there are no known location of death as well as the names of the ships used in the campaign.

Very close to this memorial is the location named V Beach. This was just one of the locations landed on at Helles on the 25th of April but with its well defended hills and beaches it saw some of the highest losses.

On the headland above V beach are gun emplacements that have now been rebuilt but where once seen as they where after the early failed navy battle. These emplacements came under heavy bombardment and an ammunition bunker was successfully hit doing much damage. Although this damage can no longer be seen there is one of the original large guns on display and it has a noticeable bend.

Next stop is the Turkish Memorial that can so clearly been seen from most locations in the area. Visited by many local tourists this site is one of a couple being used to help build a better knowledge of the conflict and create a larger feeling of pride in the Turkish people.

In stark contrast to the crowds at the Turkish Memorial is the French Cemetery only a couple of minutes away. Very quite and beautiful grounds with head stones unlike any of the others we had seen. As Turkey is an Islamic country it would be offensive to have the outline of a cross visible. The head stones of the other allied forces have the image of the cross embossed into head stones and the larger memorials. The French grave marks are a cross of made from steel fence posts in the form of a cross but the three ends that are out of the ground are feathered out so that the cross now forms a fleur de lis.

We return for lunch and to collect a special tour guide to talk us though a Turkish view of the conflict. Kenan Çelik is a very knowledgeable historian on the Gallipoli conflict with a long association with the Australian War Memorial. He has been a guide for some years now taking many heads of state, official parties and other dignitaries. Kenan has also been awarded the Order of Australia for his work on the Gallipoli campaign. The Simpson Prize students and ourselves are very fortunate that as part of being on this tour that is associated with the Australian War Memorial that Kenan can provide time at this very busy event.

While Kenan talks us through the Turkish actions of the campaign we travel through what would have been behind enemy lines in the campaign. First stop is the town where Ataturk had his headquarters. This was in a classic, small village house in the middle of town. After a visit and some more history lessons we stop for tea and coffee beautifully restored the village.

Next stop not far away is to a newly restored Turkish memorial. Here a new monument and a low wall of headstones surround an old mass grave site that was almost lost to farm land.

For Kenan to complete his talk we travel back up to the Chunuk Bair Cemetery as it gives the best over view of the battlefields for this. Kenan provides a wonderful and very detailed talk that gives a very interesting insight into the Turkish operations the views of the Turkish to the allied forces.

DAY 5 OF OUR SIMPSON PRIZE ADVENTURE!

Today we met our Turkish historian Keenan Celia, who guided us through the important historical sites on the Gallipoli Peninsula that included Ataturk’s house in the village of Bigali, trenches and memorials on the Turkish side, as well as the Turkish field hospital site and mass grave.  After teaching for many years in various levels of education, Kenan retired and is now an historian and guide for the Gallipoli campaign in addition to one of the most significant Turkish scholars. After Kenans thorough and informative historical guide, we returned to our hotel for yet another four course lunch. Many of us were amazed to see an even wider selection of pastries and desserts than the previous day (a record we thought impossible to beat). That afternoon we headed to Shrapnel Valley Cemetery for our first media experience. Channel 7 journalist Nick McCullum interviewed Zoe and I for news a presentation to be broadcasted back in Australia. We discussed our thoughts about visiting Anzac Cove and Shrapnel Valley Cemetery, how examining and reflecting the endless gravesites affected us, and our emotional feelings towards ANZAC Day and the ceremonies that we would be attending. After exploring the frontline cemeteries and sites, we continued our adventurous journey up to Lone Pine Cemetery, where we continued our individual presentations of a soldier that died during the Gallipoli campaign. My soldier, Geoffrey Bennett was 20 years old when he died, just after the landing at Gallipoli on the 25th April 1915. He was from my hometown of Camberwell, Victoria and he attended my primary school. Although I talked about my soldier at Beach Cemetery yesterday, I found his name under the 6th Battalion on the Memorial plaques at Lone Pine. After hearing part two of the “Rusty Richards” story we continued our journey, walking along the road and visiting the remains of original trenches, along with Walkers Ridge, Johnson’s Jolly and Quinn’s Post. Finally, we arrived at The Nek, where the European correspondent for Channel 9-James Talia – met us, along with his cameraman and reporters from News Limited (they produce the Herald Sun, Sunday Telegraph etc.). A few hours later we returned to the Kum Hotel, where we were greeted by another 4-5 course meal. This was followed by an absolutely glorious sunset (I got a little carried away with taking photos) then Andrew’s presentation of recovered footage called “Heroes of Gallipoli”. After such an action packed day, we were pleased when our heads touched our pillows.

KATHERINE WESTERMAN

Our first full day on the battlefields begins with a reading from a diary brought by Brian and Sue who are two tour members with a relative at our first stop, ANZAC Cove. This reading gives an additional view to the first day of combat on the 25th of April from a soldier in artillery, not the frequently described first wave solders. It describes in detail a very long and hard day that started with a mid-morning landing and did not finish until the following morning when they had to dig fox holes to sleep in.

Viewing ANZAC Cove up close for the first time is amazing. You can’t help but wonder how so many battled so hard on such a small and hash location. No image or footage can truly show just how steep this ground is. A short walk from the vantage point overlooking the cove is the grave site for ANZAC Cove.

Amongst the many headstones here is one that has become a must stop for many Australians when visiting. It is the headstone of John Simpson Kirkpatrick of the “Simpson and his Donkey” fame. This headstone is the same as all others at any of the memorial sites in the area.

Each headstone has the person’s name, their unit, the date they died and their age. A small cross is in the top left corner next to the name on most headstones. Some have the Star of David to identify those of the Jewish faith and some have no religious marking at all. A lot stones have a personal inscription as each family was allowed to provide a message of up to 66 characters. These can be very poetic and moving.

From here we can see Shrapnel Valley, it is a short trip across to the beautiful memorial site at the bottom. From a distance you can see two large Judas trees that are in full spring bloom. This is a beautiful site and it is hard to images the harsh battle that took place and the numbers that where killed.

The Shrapnel Valley memorial site is also the start of our first walk on the battlefield. A track on the left side of the memorial runs along a ridge line to Plugge’s Plateau. At the top of this track, which is steep at first but then flattens off, is a great view of the Sphinx, Razors edge and Shrapnel Valley it self.

About a third of the way up is the closest location we can find that matches a recently discovered piece of footage of ANZAC Cove that was taken during the conflict. The original can be seen below together with a piece of footage of the length I have taken to show what the area looks like now.

After lunch we travelled to the top of the hills to see Lone Pine. Only a short look here as we will be returning on ANZAC day. But there was time for some people to find the names of relatives and leave tributes.

Next was a walk to the 4th Battalion Parade Ground Memorial. This is about 200m down a steep track and is the starting point for our walk into Shrapnel Valley. This walk gives us a very good idea of just how hard this country must have been to move in, let alone conduct a war on. While the track is good and clear now you can see what a photo has difficultly showing. That is just how steep the ground is and how dense the bush land is.

Before dinner a small group of us do a short walk up and over Bolton’s Hill via Sappers post and out via Shell Green, down what remains of Artillery Road. This is to help John Hamilton and Stephen Midgley as they write histories on different topics on people who operated in this area during the conflict.

Today we encountered various extremes, from shivering outside a church to sweltering as we hiked up hills at Gallipoli. We woke up early this morning to pack and get some breakfast before leaving Istanbul for the Peninsula. First, however, we visited the Chora Church Museum, which has functioned both as a Church and a Mosque during various periods. The ceiling is covered by some of the most beautiful mosaics in the world, depicting the life stories of both Mary and Jesus in gold and bright coloured glass squares. We then left Istanbul for a six hour bus ride to the Peninsula, stopping at a supermarket on the way, where we stocked up on Turkish Delight, Turkish snacks and Turkish coffee. When we eventually arrived at Gallipoli, we first visited the Beach Cemetery, and, among others, Simpson’s headstone, and its epitaph ‘He gave his life that others might live’. We then visited Sharpnel  Valley—the serenity and order of the graveyard making an interesting contrast to the terror and heat of the battle that it is supposed to commemorate. However, I think we all gained a glimpse of the hardships endured by the ANZACs when we trekked up the steep slopes to Plugge’s Plateau, all very glad not to be carrying 14 kilo packs under enemy fire. We then visited ANZAC cove and the place of the landing. The experience of the whole day was quite amazing, to see and recognize in real life all the geographical features (such as the Cove or the Sphynx) that are so often mentioned or depicted in history books and paintings, and all of us were struck by the difficulties that the ANZACS would have to have endured. After dinner back at the hotel, where we found ourselves surrounded by masses of other Aussies on pilgrimage, we finished the day by watching the sun set over Imbros from the beach.
Imogen Forbes-Macphail

And now we head for the highlight destination of the tour, the Gallipoli Battlefield. We depart Canakkale by ferry for our first destination, Kilidbahir. Here we stop to look at the fortress and gun emplacements.
The fortress was closed on our arrival so we visited the gun emplacements that over look the Dardanelles. These old sandstone gun emplacements are currently being restored to a near new condition. The work so far, which looks like it is almost complete, has been done very well. I would have liked to see it up close by night as I could see lights set up all around the bases of the emplacements. From this vantage point we got a wonderful view of the Dardanelles and the Narrows and could clearly see just how impossible any naval battle would be.

We headed back to the fortress which was now open. This fortress, which is right on the waters edge, is composed of an inner tower surrounded by an outer wall. In plan view the outer wall is designed as three interlocking circles like a clover and the inner tower has three curved walls designed for deflecting canon fire. A very steep, narrow stair case leads up the inside of the inside of the walls to a great view of the surrounding village and the Dardanelles.

Back to the bus for a short journey to our long awaited first view of the main reason for this tour – the Gallipoli Battlefields. The first good views are from the Kabatepe Museum. A small museum with a collection made up mainly of items found over the years on the surrounding fields. There are also some uniforms from both sides with the Australian uniform originating from the Australian War Memorial.

Before we check into our home for the next 7 nights, the Kum Hotel (kum in Turkish means sand), we travel along the ridge to get a quick over view of the fields. It is amazing to see all the famous land marks for the first time.

After checking in and having some lunch the battlefield tours begin with a trip to the Nek. A truly moving site as it is in this very small location that 316 ANZACs lay, killed in the waves of attacks depicted in Peter Weir’s movie, ‘Gallipoli’. One of our tour group members and Gallipoli historical writer, John Hamilton made a dedication to Lt Colonel Alexander White (killed leading his regiment of Victorian of the 8th Light Horse up the charge of the Nek on August 7th 1915) here for a family in Australia who has a family member at this site. The Australian wild flowers came from his 2 grandchildren and 5 great grandchildren. This will be one of many such dedications to be made by John and others in the group over the next few days.

Quinn’s Post is near by for our next stop. What amazes us all, now that we are out of the bus and view these sites directly, is just who small each area is, how steep the ground is and how thick the vegetation. We can only admire how the ANZACs could get through this landscape, let alone conduct a battle.

Some more travel around the fields in the bus before returning to the Kum Hotel for dinner, a few drinks and a much needed sleep after a long and rewarding day.

Well here’s a rundown of what we went through during our stay in Istanbul. The plane landed on time – for once – and after acquiring visas and collecting our luggage we boarded our bus and headed for the hotel, driving past the old city walls on the way. They tower over the road, and some houses are built atop of the walls, showing how strong they still are. The Taxim hotel was our next stop. Very nice indeed, Imogen and I were given a suite while the rest of the group were given double rooms. Lunch was also at the hotel with a westernised menu to help us deal with the culture shock. (Try to upload the pic of Digger with the cream cake.) After lunch our group went on a cruise up the Bosphorous, seeing just how old and grand the buildings are. Luckily no one was sea sick, but the cold wind forced many of us below deck. Once we docked a short drive brought us to the stat o our walk along the streets back to the hotel, walking along Istikal Street, which has various shops on all sides, almost like a long open mall. Dinner was back at the hotel. Thursday saw a full day of sight seeing in Istanbul. First sight was the mosque of Suleyman the magnificent, and it certainly lives up to its name. It’s the biggest mosque in Istanbul/the world. (Not sure which.) Hanging on the chandeliers were rotten ostrich eggs. According to popular belief as they rot they release a smell that is undetectable to humans but dives spiders and other creepy crawlies away.

Whether it’s true or not, we did not see and bugs in any of the mosques we visited that day. A quick stop of the Hippodrome saw us become spectators to a re-enactment of the famous chariot races, but rather than horses and a 450*200m track it was class of Turkish school children running around one of the 3 remaining obelisks nine times. They were all very eager to practice their English on us. All the people are very helpful and friendly, many of the shopkeepers knowing enough English to make transactions easy. The Blue Mosque is named appropriately, for the outside at least. Inside reveals a hidden gem, with much of the seemly delicate paintings actually made of tiles. However the dome is the main attraction, even though large scaffolding sits in the middle to support the building, which would collapse if not for the modern addition. Topkapi palace really is fit for royalty. When in full use 4,500 people lived within its walls. The gem was in the treasury, with the ‘Spoon’ diamond housed in the royal treasury. The 8th largest diamond in the world, what makes it unique is it came from India rather than South America. The nickname ’spoon’ diamond comes from a legend that the man who found it traded it to a jeweller for two wooden spoons.

Madeleine Haywood

Just a quick note to let people know that the Simpson Prize students have arrived in Istanbul and will soon be travelling the the Kum Hotel (near ANZAC Cove).